Saturday, March 19, 2011

First Impressions of Site Visit

This is a post that is composited of selections from my journal over the first few days I was at site visit.

12 Mars 2011 5:00 PM
HOLY COW I arrived three hours ago and I have to write this all down before I forget! After about five hours on a bus, my homologue, Oumar, stopped the bus in the middle of a field, where his friend met us on a moto. They rode slowly ahead of me while I pedalled furiously through the sand and pebbles, away from the main road, to my village. After about 20 minutes of passing scrubby brush, empty fields, and forest, I heard the distant yet distinctive sound of a balafon, the traditional wooden and gourd xylophone so prevalent here. I was so nervous! A million thoughts were running through my head: Is this what I expected when I started my application two years ago? I hope I like it- this village is going to be my home for the next two years. I can't believe this is happening! Will I be happy? Disappointed? I had no idea what to expect, or why I was panicking. I was so hot and dusty and sweaty and foreign that I was certain that upon arrival they would think I was ridiculous. Who am I kidding? I'm from America and I've been planted in the middle of the bush in West Africa. What about that is not ridiculous?

We rode in to the shade of a big tree and the party started. Women brought me a chair and cool water (it was so hard not to chug it all, however, the fear of West African microbial nasties held me back). Then, some dude rode up on a moto with a giant, panicked turkey in his lap, who was squawking these terrible, concerned squawks. Oh shit. I kept thinking, "Are they going to kill it in front of me? Mental note: act like you see turkeys die all the time." Though the turkey was cradled in the lap of the woman sitting next to me for the next hour (much panicked squawking), luckily, they didn't kill it in front of me. I can't be sure, but if they did end up slaughtering it, I assume I will eat it for dinner tonight. Hmm.

The men, women, and children danced to the balafon and drums for over an hour. The elder women did special music and dance. They had gourds covered in a net of cowry shells which they shook to a chanting rhythm. Each came up to greet me, and as they did, they knelt in front of my and touched the ground with the gourd. The dugutigi [chief of village] made a speech, which was translated into French for me. He welcomed me warmly and thanked me for coming to help them. We danced some more (that was hilarious for them). The men stood on one side of the crowd and the women on the other. I was really so touched by the whole thing. I welled up a little at the thought that these people are seeking a better life through a partnership with me, not just a huge organization like the United States Peace Corps, but me, Chelsea Barker, a complete stranger to them, their language, their culture. It's overwhelming to think about it.

Eventually Oumar realized how tired I was and showed me to my house, which is amazing, btw. It has three rooms with cement floors. I have three windows. The rooms are huge. My courtyard has lots of space, a hammock, a and a moringa tree! It even has a pea vine the provides shade from an overhang. I can't wait to get some furninshings. My negen looks good, too. So far, so good.



8:31 PM
Lonely. Took a nap, got a million Bambara phrases messed up and I haven't met my host family yet. I see how PCVs get so lonely. Tomorrow should be interesting. No sacrificial turkey for dinner? Confused.

13 Mars 2011, 6:48 AM
Slept alright, but damn, it's hot. It makes me lethargic.

10:48 AM
Formally met the dugutigi and junior dugutigi. Both are ancient men with no teeth but they seem nice. I've eaten about ten mangoes since being here. Thank goodness Oumar bought some for me on the way in, otherwise I'd be really hungry without them. My village is pretty, rather picturesque. Lots of mud-brick buildings, thatched roofs, chickens, sheep, goats, guinea hens, and even some ducks and a pig. It's spread out and not exactly flat. I can see that erosion is a big problem here.

15 Mars 2011, 7:28 AM
Last night I drank tea with the schoolteachers (who speak French). I asked them why the women were cutting down brush, and not the men, since it is very hard work and men are stronger (something they were adament about telling me earlier). They thought for a moment and said, as if solving a riddle, "Ahhh, yes. Women must fetch firewood because it is part of preparing food, and that is women's work. It is very good." I immediately retorted, "No, it's very good for you because that's hard work!" They laughed. I don't think they understood my indignation. I also tried to explain to them american football, and they thought it was rugby, and then they thought it was cricket. Trying to explain Maryville College's powderpuff football tradition was just freaking hilarious.

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