Tuesday, March 27, 2012

Knock Knock! Coup’s There? A MILITARY JUNTA

As you may have heard by now, there was a military coup d'etat in Mali that happened this past Wednesday. My dad asked me to post a quick update on the situation from a PCV standpoint because I’m here and kind of experiencing it. I say “kind of” because it’s been nearly entirely contained to Bamako, and literally nothing has changed for me down in Sikasso. That’s the good and short news for you. I am safe and secure. My friends are, too.

You can find some really excellent information on the coup and the background history here, and here. I am not officially allowed to comment on the coup or give my opinion on the political situation, as I am a representative of the Peace Corps, and therefore a (long) extension of the American government and its people. So, I’ll be brief, and attempt to refrain from offering any commentary. (Hah.) The BBC Africa page is always a good place to look if you are bored at work and need a page to refresh, Al-Jezeera is on top of it, and CNN, as usual, is operating in its usual space-cadet ways, probably still reporting on Whitney Houston’s death or that cat that miraculously lived after falling 19 stories.

Basically, a couple of junior officers (mostly bloodlessly) overthrew the government, forced the president into hiding, threw out the constitution, shut down the airport, closed the borders, and declared that they weren’t backing down until there was a democratically elected president AND the issue with the Tuaregs up north was taken care of. First of all, the coup (ironically named the National Council for the Recovery of Democracy and the Restoration of the State – yes, seriously, you can’t make this shit up) has logic that’s about as tight as a woven basket. Virtually the entire international community renounced the junta, revoked their international aid, and unofficially called them dumbasses for failing to remember that 1) Mali’s been a democracy with a democratically elected president for twenty years and 2) Elections were scheduled for a mere five weeks from the date of the coup. LACK OF VISION, as my father would say. There are tons of rumors about the coup, about Amadou Toumani Toure (or ATT-- the now-deposed president), purported collusion, conspiracy theories, and the Malian military’s involvement with/failure to stop the Tuareg rebels up north, but that’s the issue in a very small nutshell. I highly suggest you check out the above links to get a fuller picture.

Democracy is a tricky seductress, and doesn’t always operate under the same standards every where she claims to be. As you read more about the coup d’etat, you’ll likely hear how many are condemning Mali for letting slip their spotless record of democracy in a region full of unstable states. Things are not always as they seem, and my good friend and fellow PCV, Ashley, makes a compelling argument against the temptation to call it like it is—a shame, a disappointment, a failure. Ashley says that democracy did not, has not, and clearly will not come easy in a nation for which it is not native. I agree.The coup notwithstanding, Mali is one of the most underdeveloped nations in the world for many reasons, and each of those is a contributing factor to a quiet, yet pervasive instability underneath the guise of a functioning democracy.

Over the past week, Peace Corps has done a friggin’ spectacular job getting in touch with every single PCV, calling, emailing us with two, sometimes three updates a day, and making sure we have what we need until we can move forward as an organization. I am happy to report that here in Sikasso, the anticipated toilet paper hoarding was a non-issue, as was the decision to make Team Dinner Bigger Dinner Winner Dinner every night for all 24 of us. All things considered, life here is pretty good.

My colleagues and I remain hopeful that the coup leaders will continue to be non-violent (the worst of their actions included firing their guns in the air and sporadic looting). The airport and borders opened today, and according to all reports, life in Bamako is more or less back to normal. The junta has some pretty high demands, but I suspect that once they realize what’s at stake (after all, something like 40% of Mali’s budget comes from foreign aid) they’ll sort out some kind of compromise. At least, that’s what I hope. But these things tend to be capricious, so we’ll just have to see.

Therefore, we’re still not out of the woods yet, in terms of the possibility of evacuation. The next few days/this week will be telling. I really, truly hope we don’t leave. There is absolutely no threat to PCVs working in villages. We are safe, and untouched by the coup. We have work to be doing. People are depending on us. The damage inflicted by an evacuation would cause excessive and unnecessary stress for so many people—everyone from our loved ones back home, to our office staff in Bamako and Washington, to our host families in village, to the dozens of Malians that Peace Corps employs.

(WARNING: I get a little preachy here, feel free to skip this paragraph) Quite a few people have expressed to me and my friends here that this is potentially a good thing—that we could finally come home, guilt-free. While we may have joked about a “get out of jail free” card in the past, the ugly truth that’s facing us now is that in reality, an evacuation would really just fuck a lot of things up. No one wants that. My friends are in the middle of projects here, we have relationships that we can’t just up and leave. And, on a personal note, simply being here can, at times, be a very stressful experience; it’s a lot like being a waitress on roller skates. Every time we shift to pick up something else for our load, every time we need to readjust or change directions it’s like skating over a pebble and falling on our asses in a puddle of cherry limeade, only to have to get up and pretend that no one saw and your ass doesn’t hurt like hell. Except there are no cherry limeades here. My point is, we’re trying. We want to make this work, and we do, every day that we’re here. It’s not like we’re exiled; we chose this. And contrary to what it may sound like, many (most) PCVs really love what they do and don’t want to be sent home.

To further complicate things, I am in a rather unique situation. Last Wednesday, I moved out of my old village, Kandiadougou. I spent the morning paying visits to my host family, my homologue, and my friend, Mamu. I explained that between the language barrier and the community’s lack of response to the necessary work, I would be better used in another village. Surprisingly, they took it well. No one really fought it, except my friend Mamu, who just told me to move into her house instead. My homologue, once he realized what I was saying simply replied, “Wait. They can’t just come talk to us again?” I clearly made the right decision. I plan on going back and visiting my host family and Mamu in the future.

Somewhat fortuitously for me, the cement at my new house was not dry when I moved out, so I was instructed to stay for a few nights in Sikasso before being moved to my new village. During the course of the first night I was in Sikasso, the coup occurred. I’ve been here ever since. On the one hand, I’m glad I didn’t move to a brand new village, only to be pulled out the next day. The villagers would have been very confused. On the other hand, if PC Mali does have to evacuate, then I’m not sure how I feel about entering another round of emotional and physical limbo. There are two (huge) options to weigh: finish my service elsewhere or repatriate. I’m trying not to get too far ahead of myself. My poor dog, also in limbo, is staying at a friend’s host family’s concession about twenty minutes from the Sikasso house (where she is not allowed). Scout must be very confused, bless her heart. There’s nothing I can really do, except visit her during the day. But that just makes me sad, because she cries every time I leave her. Again, I’m trying not to think about evacuation. Scout would have to stay behind.

So, for now, I’m just enjoying the company of my friends, watching movies (so far all of the Harry Potter movies and the Star Wars Trilogy, natch), making family dinners, and planning the Sikasso Olympics, to be held tomorrow. Events include rice sack races, fastest mosquito net set-up, oral rehydration solution chugging, peanut shelling, and Peace Corps trivia. I will be sure to document the upcoming days, and update as necessary. Thanks to everyone who wrote or called asking about me. It always feels good to know you’re in someone’s thoughts. In the words of our regional coordinator, Mama, “Let’s remember to be vigilant, okay?” Which, of course, we have shortened to “CONSTANT VIGILANCE.” Accio democracy!

No comments:

Post a Comment